Crested gecko health: Keeping your crested gecko fit and health. Crested geckos are among the easiest reptiles to keep as pets, providing that the few very easy rules are followed.
* Crested geckos require a nutrient and calcium rich balanced diet, in order to allow them to grow properly and live a long and healthy life.
* They also require a temperature gradient in order to allow them to thermo-regulate and better digest the nutrients inside their food.
* In addition they require a lot of space to maneuver, and being arboreal tree dwellers additionally they require lots of climbing branches / perches.
* The most common health issues that occur in cresties in captivity are generally a consequence of among the above not offered, or otherwise not being offered for the correct standard.
Below you will discover an insight into the most common of these problems and the ways to ensure that they are prevented.
MBD: Metabolic Bone Disease in crested geckos:
Metabolic bone disease in geckos is frequently caused as a result of insufficient the proper nutrients being provided in their diets.
Metabolic bone disease is really a deficiency of calcium, which leads to the gecko utilising the calcium reserves looking at the own body and skeleton to supplement this lack in calcium.
By utilizing the reserves of calcium in their own body, the gecko’s skeleton is ‘warped’ and misshapen because of the bones becoming very weak and pliable.
This often leads to permanent disfigurement from the gecko, especially as bumps, twists and dips in the spine along with a rotating of the hips, causing the tail to flop or jut-out at an unusual angle.
Metabolic bone disease can also cause a weakening from the jaw, causing the gecko finding eating far more difficult.
The jaw is usually too weak for your gecko to close it itself, and the jaw remains permanently open.
As a result of weakening from the bones, MBD can also at its worst lead to numerous broken bones.
A gecko with MBD finds it more challenging to climb, and often lose the ‘stickiness’ on the feet and tail. If a gecko with MBD falls from the height, broken bones are often the result.
Metabolic bone disease in their latter stages is actually a horrific sight to witness, and also the gecko is twisted and contorted from recognition.
In younger and crested gecko breeding females it really is extra essential to supplement feeding properly. Hatchlings put a lot of calcium into bone growth, and breeding females use an extraordinary amount of calcium when producing eggs.
Providing a healthy, nutrient rich and balanced gecko diet is regarded as the foolproof method to help prevent your crested gecko developing MBD.
Preventing gecko Metabolic Bone Disease in crested geckos:
* Gut load live food just before feeding causing them to be more nutritious
* Dust live food with nutrient powders, Calcium, and Calcium D3
* Offer a good meal replacement gecko diet powder
* UVB light can also assist to prevent MBD, because it helps the gecko to absorb and utilise the calcium in their diet more efficiently
* A lot of phosphorous in a diet can prevent calcium being absorbed. Avoid foods with higher phosphorus content.
* Floppy tail syndrome: FTS in crested geckos
Floppy tail syndrome in geckos occurs when the gecko’s tail literally flops inside an abnormal direction. It is most noticeable once the gecko is laying upside-down, flat up against the side of its enclosure, in which point the tail usually flops down over its head or in a jaunty angle.
A proper gecko tail would rest up against the glass in their natural position.
It is thought that Floppy tail syndrome results mainly coming from a captive environment as cresties in the wild would rarely come across a surface as flat, smooth and vertical as an enclosure wall.
It is considered that this flat surface is exactly what can contribute to FTS in crested geckos, as laying about this vertical surface for extended time periods results in the tail ‘flopping’ over because of gravity, and weakens the muscles on the tails base.
At its worst, floppy tail syndrome is believed in order to twist the pelvis in the gecko, predominantly because of the excessive weight put on the pelvic area when the tail flops aside.
For this reason it is really not advised to breed a female crested gecko with FTS, as she could well encounter problems trying to pass the eggs.
Although no concrete evidence is accessible, it can be assumed that providing plenty of climbing and hiding places for the gecko may help to stop them from sleeping on the enclosure walls.
Nevertheless it continues to be not fully understood whether here is the actual underlying reason for FTS. Many believe it can be a genetic deformity, and therefore it can be passed from parents to their young although on the minute this seems unlikely.
Heat Stress in Crested Geckos
Heat Stress in crested geckos is the top killer of those usually very hardy and easy to look after reptiles.
Crested geckos will quickly show stress if kept at temperatures above 28C for prolonged time periods.
It is easier to keep up your crested gecko enclosure at temperatures nearer to around 25C rather than risk over exposure to higher temperatures.
That being said you can allow parts of your enclosure to reach 28C – for example directly beneath the basking bulb – so long when your pet gecko can choose to move into a cooler area if they wish.
Higher temperatures only become a deadly problem whenever your gecko needs to endure them constantly or for long periods of time minus the choice to cool down.
Research shows that crested gecko in contact with temperatures of 30C without having the ability to cool down, can and can most likely die within an hour.
Young/small geckos are even very likely to heat stress so it is advisable to always allow them the decision to maneuver for the cooler end with their temperature range.
Cleaning your crested gecko vivarium:
Keeping your gecko enclosure clean will help you to prevent illnesses associated with bad hygiene, bacteria and moulds.
The crested gecko tank / enclosure will periodically need a thorough clean when it becomes dirty.
I think it is easiest to spot-clean the enclosures every day or two, removing uneaten food and excrement and wiping the sides of the enclosure with damp paper towel.
There are several reptile-safe disinfectants now available and these can be diluted with water to ensure a secure environment to your gecko after cleaning and you can use newspaper to wash up smears and streaks on glass enclosures.
It is actually advised to perform a thorough complete clean of the enclosure as well as its contents once in a while. I often conduct a big clean out every month to assist stop any unwanted bacteria accumulating.
With regular cleaning and upkeep your crested gecko enclosure should never create an unwanted odour or create mould/bacteria.
Selecting a healthy crested gecko:
A proper gecko:
• Could have clean and clear nose and eyes. Eyes is going to be bright and shiny and will not be sunken into the head.
• Will never have layers of retained shed skin stuck at its extremities. Healthy geckos shed in a several hours and shed should not remain a lot longer than this.
• Is definitely not dehydrated: Dehydrated geckos could have loose skin, sunken eyes and will be somewhat lethargic. Dehydration often brings about the gecko looking thin in comparison to a well hydrated gecko.
• Will likely be alert when handled, a unhealthy animal is going to be limp qrtdbr possibly shaky in your hand and can show little to no interest or reaction in being handled
• Needs to have a plump, straight tail that can ‘grasp’ onto objects. A great test of the is that if the gecko wraps its tail around your finger.
• Should have almost Velcro like feet. When the gecko is neglecting to stick/climb – this can become a sign of MBD or retained shed.
Take a look at our website committed to the care and husbandry of crested geckos and leopard geckos.